Travel writer and photographer, Steve Robertson, takes us to Havana to experience life through the lens in a town where photo opportunities are the easy part…

In the late afternoon, the sun prowls through the narrow cobblestone streets of Habana Vieja, the old city of Havana, peering around corners and seeking out moments to illuminate:

Standing on a stone balcony, four pretty schoolgirls in crisp white blouses compare notes on the new boy in class; A rusty rubbish bin to you and me is third base for a gaggle of boys playing stickball in the fading light;

Exasperated, an old man with a deeply lined and weathered face leans under the bonnet of his 1954 De Soto, trying against all odds to persuade a baulky carburettor to give the engine some petrol just one more time.

Roughly diamond-shaped, with the bay and the imposing Castillo de la Punta at its northern end, Habana Vieja offers photographers some of the most memorable images of any Cuban holiday. It took the producers of the hit film Buena Vista Social Club very little time to figure out that combining the infectious rhythms and sentimental songs of Cuba with scenes from this museum-piece neighbourhood of around 100,000 people would produce a photographic experience the whole world would want to share. Even without the music, it can do the same for you. Rule number one – no car. The maze of narrow one-way streets is sheer torture for anyone attempting to drive here, so leave the wheels behind and walk.

Strolling along the Bahia del la Habana on Avenida del Puerto, you will encounter the Castillo Real de la Fuerza. Built between 1558 and 1577, it is the oldest colonial fortress in the Americas and affords an excellent view across the harbour entrance. The massive stone walls offer cool respite from soaring Havana summer temperatures.

Today a ceramic art museum, this castle once housed the cannons guarding the most precious port in all the New World. It forms a square with enormous triangular bulwarks at the corners. You can wander through the battlements and climb a narrow winding staircase to the top, where you’ll get great views of the old city.

From the castle you can walk north along the bay through a long park until you reach another castle, Castillo de la Punta, or you can plunge into the heart of the old city just three blocks away, at the Plaza de la Catedral.

Completed in 1787, the Catedral de Habana forms the eastern wall of the Plaza de la Catedral. Before the revolution, the cathedral was known for housing Christopher Columbus’ bones. After the revolution in 1959, these prestigious relics were moved to Santo Domingo, but it was later discovered that they were not Columbus’ remains after all. Oops. Inside the cathedral it is cool and languid, even on the hottest Havana days. Use a tripod and a wide angle lens for your camera to take it all in – no flash is strong enough to illuminate so vast a scene.

Opportunities to participate in the daily rhythms of Havana abound Plaza de la Catedral. Salsa players perform for the crowd at Le Patio, an upscale restaurant and bar, winking and smiling to encourage you to get up and dance. Music is everywhere. We heard old men, obviously basking in the success of Buena Vista Social Club, playing for tips on the street in front of a wildly approving audience.

Off photographing late one afternoon, I followed the sound of earthy rhythms coming from a crumbling warehouse. Inside, a dozen men and women were banging drums, shaking gourds, singing and shouting and swaying. It was a Santería ceremony, part of an Afro-Cuban religious tradition rooted deep in the country’s history. For once the camera stayed in the bag as I quietly and unobtrusively soaked up this very real, very non-tourist display. There are times to shoot and times not to shoot, and this was the latter.Just a few metres from the cathedral is the Irish section of town…well, not really. Calle O’Reilly was named for a Spaniard with Irish blood. The ornate National City Bank of New York is here (its list of presidents includes Che Guevara), as is the charming Café O’Reilly. Here you ascend an ancient spiral staircase to a bar where young Habaneros clown about and play traditional music. The national drink, a concoction of rum, sugar cane and mint, will cause you to lose focus alarmingly, so beware.

Habana Vieja has been called the “finest urban ensemble in the Americas.” More than 900 of its 3,157 structures are of historic importance. Of these, only 101 were built in the 20th century. Almost 500 are from the 19th; 200 are from the 18th; and 144 are from the 16th and 17th centuries. Only one in six buildings is in good condition. Many are crumbling into ruins around the people who occupy them. Not so great for them but perfect for atmospheric photos of a community clinging to the vestiges of a bygone age.

In 1977, the Cuban government named Habana Vieja a National Monument. The following year it formalized a plan to rescue the city from centuries of neglect. In 1982 Old Havana was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site, giving international recognition to the policy of safeguarding the city’s historical and cultural values.

Old Havana still boasts many other gems of its origins, such as the Alameda de Paula, the Plaza de Armas, the Morro and La Cabana castles, the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, all testimony to the greatness of the city’s colonial past.

Traditions, legends and history have combined to make Old Havana a historical heritage jewel, but not some lifeless relic. The people of Havana go about their daily lives here and rarely mind being photographed. Locals look down from balconies adorned with lush vegetation, re-enacting a scene that is centuries old. Relaxing in open doorways, Cubans chat for all to hear with neighbours down the street. As you stroll, enjoy a view of colonial roofs, stained-glas windows, grates, low walls, balustrades, arcades and balconies in an astonishing profusion of styles; savour a Mojito in Bodeguita del Medio, along with the delights of the best and most authentic Cuban traditional food, or sip a daiquiri in El Floridita, just as Ernest Hemingway did years ago, a man perpetually astonished by the charm of this enchanting city.

It is a truly awe-inspiring place to wander aimlessly among the city’s churches, museums, gallerias and memorials. Street after street is graced with grand facades, boasting massive wooden doors, barred windows and narrow sidewalks.

If you are tired of tripod shots in darkened laneways, choose the sun and breeze and walk on the long Malecón alongside the sea, all the while enjoying the happiness of the Cubans who come there to talk, fall in love, read, swim, bask in the sun, or have a quick sip of rum. Outside the Old Town is a district called Varadero, where most of the hotels are located. Ground level photo opportunities are scarce here but if you are staying at the slightly shabby but nevertheless comfortable Hotel Capri, go up to the rooftop pool for some superb shots of the city skyline.

The hotel, by the way, was once a casino and Mafia stronghold during the free-wheeling 1950s reign of the dictator Batista. Actor George Raft, who had close Mob connections, managed the place and even defied Castro for a while before the lurid gaming rooms were finally closed down. Today it’s a tame, convenient and not too expensive option for somewhere to stay. You can also get onto the Internet and find private homes even closer to the Old Town. A few other photo destinations are worth a look: We liked the soaring monument to patriot Jose Marti, killed in 1895; the low-key but interesting zoo; and several long tree-lined plazas in Varadero.

How long will Havana remain so real, so unspoilt? At least a few more years, suspect. Tourism has been a mass industry for about five years now yet very little appears to have changed, except that finally there are enough dollars in this economically-challenged nation to start restoring some of the old buildings to their former glory.

See and photograph it now, while it retains a bit of raffish shabbiness, and its people are still relaxed and happy that you’re there, sharing a unique and very picturesque corner of the world.

Getting there: Generally, you cannot enter Cuba directly from the USA. Go in via Canada or especially Jamaica, with frequent flights from Montego Bay to Havana. At all costs avoid Mexico, where air “services” are very erratic. Formalities at Havana Airport were astonishingly quick and efficient.

Visa: Australian citizens require a visa for Cuba. This can be easily obtained at the Cuban offices in Sydney.

When to go: The city is very hot and humid in the northern summer (June to September). From December to February is when Canadian and European tourists tend to flock here, so instead try for October/November or April/May. Getting around the city: We loved the cute little two passenger CocoTaxis, lemon-shaped pods that are cheap and fast. You can also use the polished 1950s American sedans, or get rides with locals looking to make a few dollars. Money: Almost everything is paid for in US dollars, cash. We never saw Cuban currency during the entire visit. Most credit cards are useless, unless linked to European banks. Safety: We felt exceptionally safe and secure in Cuba. Penalties for locals who attack or rob tourists are quite severe.

Film and lenses: I used Kodak’s excellent 100 ISO Ektachrome VS slide film and loved it. The vibrant colours complement the city perfectly. Bring a tripod for the dark alleys, a polarising filter for the bright sunshine, and a long lens for candid photos of the people. A wide angle lens (I used 20 mm) is useful at the fortresses.

Steve Robertson

Entry was posted on Friday, July 13th, 2007 at 8:28 pm under .  Print This Post