Photography travel: Dirty and delightfully deserted
By Staff writer
Four weeks, six days and a handful of hours have passed since tossing the swag on the roof rack and aiming the car in a northerly direction. The once in a lifetime journey was to take me throughout the centre of Western Australia and to some of the most arid, yet hauntingly beautiful landscapes in the country. My destination was genuinely unknown.
At this moment, as I sit here tapping away on my laptop, I feel driven to tell you I’m overlooking the stunning turquoise waters of Monkey Mia, an, for the record, there’s not one monkey in sight!. I have decided to take the day to catch my breath. A morning spent under the car should keep it purring a little longer and as my last shower was almost a week ago the attack I made on a bar of soap not long after has made me much better company. Surely this is the perfect time to pass on a thing or two I’ve picked up while on this journey?
Although I’ve enjoyed years exploring the outback with my camera I still haven’t mastered the skill of
creating the ideal itinerary. No matter how many hours I spend studying the map for every possible point of interest there is always a reason to stay another night once at a location.
Knowing this trip would take me through the Gibson, Great Sandy and Tanami deserts where little is documented and surprises wait around every corner, I allowed several additional days within the itinerary. All the same, they quickly disappeared and I found myself travelling through the night to keep it on schedule. Sudden changes in the weather have seen tracks become impassable for days and, in my case, it is wise to allow the odd day extra to mend the ageing transport when she decides she’s driven far enough.
We’ve all seen how the landscape is illuminated in the early morning and late afternoon light and for the past month I never been more aware. As Australians we are often blessed with clear blue skies, particularly those who live further inland. In fact the sand beneath me right now sees rain just 6 times a year. It’s hard to remember my “Neighbours” years in Melbourne from this seat. This is a digression none the less but I have a point. I love clouds. They break up the sky and when it’s overcast reduce the contrast between shadows and light.
So far I’ve counted clouds on just two occasions. Therefore most of my photography has been before and after the sun. A reminder to pack the tripod to help with those long exposures in the reduced light.
Out here the seasons change the landscape in sensational fashion. Seeds may sit dormant for years waiting for rain, and when it arrives the endless horizons of sand and spinifex evolve into a sea of colour. Now is the moment for flowering plants. New growth covers the land in a carpet of green.
Camels and dingoes are drawn to the water followed by birds and reptiles. The photographer is suddenly spoilt for choice. Of course, this display is not typical of every year and may be seen only once in several so it’s important to find out as much as you can well in advance.
I find the best time to travel is just after the wet season, once the tracks open up. Water still flows through gorges and life is easy to find. It’s a good idea to keep an eye on the weather reports leading up to the trip and a flexible departure date is a luxury but often the difference between getting the images you are after or not. Striking up a conversation with a local is the key to finding unique locations in an area. In fact, the best advice I have ever heard came from a resident grader driver, and doesn’t it make sense. This chap had driven the tracks we were taking year after year and knew the sights along the way.
After a quick chat I had learnt of a plane crash, a secret aboriginal rock art site, and where to find a brilliant red pulpit (I never knew what one was either). Without notice an extra day was taken to explore and photograph some stunning locations that otherwise would have been passed by.
And although it’s left me along way behind schedule I’m glad I took the time. For theses pages I’ve barely had the chance to grab a few quick images from the digital camera… the film images are yet to come. I can’t wait to show you those.


